About Me

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MichaelM’s stuff is a travel Blog written by Michael Mead. It covers Michael & Diane’s journeys. It blogs about the amazing places and countries that we have visited, the peoples, flora and fauna, history, geography and culture. Michael is now retired and loves living on the Northern Beaches of Sydney. He is a member of Rotary and was President of Rotary Balgowlah in 2014-2015 He has been on two visits overseas with Rotary (Myanmar in 2014 and Timor Leste in 2016) Diane & I went to Gallipoli on a Rotary tour at the 100th anniversary of the landing in 2014)

Monday, 27 April 2020

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Melbourne to home



I was in hotel quarantine Having touched down  processing of with arrival formalities and quarantine requirements at the airport and were put on a bus to go to our city hotel















As we drove out of the airport internal road Tullamarine airport was a ghost town; there were avenues of planes parked around the terminals and their approaches - ranging from large international jets of many carriers to small private aircraft. Most had big circular covers placed over the jet engine cowlings and obviously were not moving anytime soon.
No people were about, terminals in darkness, empty car parks and roads free of traffic.



We were taken by bus to Rydges on Swanson Street Melbourne. At the end of the freeway and travelling along city streets there were closed shops and cafes, empty trams. No apparent activity in a large city of nearly 5 million people - all indoors.

Quarantine at Rydges was a big step-down from the Greg Mortimer. We felt like lepers was often the term used among passengers but over 60% were positive so the group needed to be treated as infectious and dangerous. The room was dark colours and unappealing but was rather dirty; the carpet was not clean and smelt musty, the bathroom the toilet need a good clean and bath tile grouting was mouldy.  Well didn't expect 5 star at Government expense but army barracks in Nasho in the late 60's had cleaner facilities and standards.

Well move on..... it wasn't a time for bitching I was back in Oz! I talked to Diane and we had ZOOM hook ups and despite the window not opening I had sunlight and a quiet Swanson street outside. The staff at the hotel were very obliging and friendly on the phone and helped where possible.

Swanston Street from my window
No only during the morning journey to the hotel, but when later watching TV (only free-to-air) did the far reaching and crippling threat of this deadly virus that had now spread into a global pandemic become even more apparent. It didn't matter what channel you watched, the danger from the pandemic and the lock down provisions was the story. Life was operating to a new normal, families and organisations meetings used ZOOM, Restaurants, pubs and clubs have no patrons, cafes are take-away only.

Having hit home soil, frequent contact with family and friends was now in play. It was nice to catch up although most had heard about the circumstances however the reports in Australia were in my view biased and not accurate. It later turned out there was an agenda by some passengers who had contacted the media and a class action was being set up. The circumstances were not perfect but the handling of the rapidly changing crisis by the company was performed professionally in my view.

The food at Rydges was rather tasteless and unappealing (sometimes I was unsure what it was). the meals became a daily subject of ridicule,  criticism and often humour by many on Whats App. The company gave us $300 credit and send a nice fruit box which helped alleviate the possibility of starvation and scurvy (Ha ha). I also ordered from Woolworths on line twice and often made my own meal.

DHHS in Victoria made contact every day, mostly twice. SWAB testing occurred on Monday 13 April (Nasal) and Thursday 16 April (1 Nasal, 1 Anal) ALL NEGATIVE. (in addition to the one on the Greg Mortimer that's 4 NEGATIVES.

I agreed to another voluntary study, "Greg Mortimer Cohort Study" also conducted by DHHS Victoria. It was to research the role of asymptomatic and mild infections in transmission of Covid19. It focused on the immune response to infection. They collected 5 vials of blood on 16/4/20 and 7vials on 24/4/20. It turned out subsequently that I had a high level of antibodies - who knows when I was infected since I had no temperature of other symptoms... The unknown is how long will my immunity last.

Due to an administration error our paperwork for Covid19 detention stated we were to be released on Monday 27 April not Sunday 26 April (14 days). Return flights were booked and with so few available, I stayed until Monday 27/4.
Swanston Street Monday 27 April at about 11:30am
I was allowed a walk in the fresh air on the Sunday and the simple things in life, a walk in the inner city, a latte, seeking the closures and shut down in Fitzroy Lygon street and walking through the inner parks of Melbourne.

 Home at last:

Aurora booked and paid for the Qantas Flight flight to Sydney on Monday evening plus have paid my cab fare home. As far as their offer, took the cruise in the future option - South Georgia and Falklands in 2022 (not Antartica) since Diane will come too if there is no Drake's passage.

So there it is, Covid19 might have completely upset holiday plans in my case, but I managed to see a lot nevertheless. Covid19 has enormously affected public health, crowd behaviour, family life, how we can now work, travel, and the way we can meet, relax and socialise. How we live has been changed enormously and suddenly, and it's effects will continue for a long time to come.


Friday, 10 April 2020

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The new order: Cabin Quarantine

Cabin Quarantine and getting back:

I have recorded some of the events that transpired whilst we were in cabin-isolation awaiting to get back home. The situation was a cross between boredom and frustration with the slow progress to resolving the situation. The expedition team and crew did their utmost to help ameliorate problems and upset this where possible. The candor and open communications of the company with passengers on the situation and future plans for its resolution was updated daily with letters at the door and announcements on the PA system.

On Monday Monday 23 March 2020; the passenger who presented with fever and cabin companion now in ship isolation wing and being cared for by Dr Maurico.

Ship enters self-isolation mode with WHO protocols in place: Protective masks issued to passengers, expedition staff and crew. No person-to person contact. & all passengers confined to cabins.

Meals & Drinks delivered to outside each cabin:A little knock at the door meant that meals are left at the door but voices for the evening meal still available. Expedition staff and ships crew are very considerate and obliging and ensured that most requests were fulfilled. A call to reception and they  helped or arranged passengers to fulfill requests.

Announcements over the PA, letters from the company under the door, this is the new way we receive communications.

Two temperature checks today, both mine OK. An uneasy calm with PA frequent announcements and a daily procedure in isolation is emerging.

Spent the day watching the cabin TV and David Attenborough Docos. More penguins..

Word is Latam flights from Falklands to Santiago de Chile, sharing with passengers from Scenic Eclipse; then direct to Sydney. Ah well, it will be good to leave before cabin fever sets in. Should arrive at Port Stanley late tomorrow.

Some uncertainty about timing for testing and getting confirmation whether it is Codid19 or not; there are many other causes of elevated temperatures.

Spoke to family but often the connection freezes and getting to use small sentences and simple phrases.
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Heading towards Falklands 23/3/2020

Tuesday 24 March 2020:
Sailing towards the Falklands but now cannot land. The facilities at Stanley cannot handle potential Covid19 cases and there would be a mandatory 10 day quarantine before we disembark.
Lying at anchor and no hospital facilities or supply capability (fuel, food etc)  not feasible; autumn coming and the possibility of rough seas and not being able to disembark for 10 days, the Falklands was no longer an option.

Temperatures of all passengers on board taken from 10 am daily.

Three crew members are found to have elevated temperatures so the situation has become more serious and challenging.

The plan is to travel to Montevideo in Uruguay since calmer seas should be encountered and better connections to onward travel routes are available. The Sydney office were working on charter flights and onward connections.

Robert Halfpenny the CEO is writing a letter each day to passengers. Referring to the Montevideo arrangements he said "First step is to prove all are healthy on the ship and use little risk of being Covid19 positive or ill from another cause."

More movie and docs. Some great innovations by expedition team a daily sheet called "The Masked Penguin" and printed interesting stories and information to the passengers.

Foreign affairs in the Buenos Aires Consulate are now requesting our contact information and nominated family contact.

We passed Falklands Islands in the afternoon. My balcony gave nice views of the island in the distance.

 












 

Wednesday 25 March 2020:

Dr Mauriceo at my door to take my temperature
Disembarkation at Montevideo is still planned but not definite actions are known. Even sailing back to Australia is being proposed.


Afternoon temp readings 2 additional pax and additional crew member presented with raised temps in afternoon check.

Rapid test kits to indicate if Covid19 causing temperature elevation with patients. (subsequently found inaccurate).

The weather is getting warmer and the sky clearer, a beautiful sunsets.

 

Thursday - Friday March 26 - 27, 2020

Cabin isolation continues
Challenging times, people behave differently on the Whats App chat set up by the Australian Embassy. The uncertainty and stress shows some passengers vent their frustration at the company and embassy since plans are not certain at this point.

Have started to pack to get ready for Montevideo. ( just in case)

Aurora remain open in communications and candor, with the Embassy/DFAT.

At 9:15 pm on 26/3/2020, we arrived at Montevideo and anchor 10 nautical miles SE of  the harbour entrance.
Saturday 28 March 2020

The rapid test kits gave negative results , however the Uruguayan and embassies have the opinion that this test does not exclude the likelihood of Covid19 being on board. Only confidence in isolation procedures by authorities will change our situation, so is unchanged and outcome still uncertain, and disembarkation and onward flights home look some time off.

Other ships were at anchor in our vicinity.
Greenpeace at anchor next to us
 The passenger with high temperature was transferred to at hospital in Montevideo



Sunday 29 March 2020 

Ongoing discussion & negotiations continue with Uruguayan Authorities, Aurora and embassies and DFAT. Jenny has supplied me a cabin exercises program great help; video calls also great. Understand the company also contacting Di (and passenger's contact at home to update).
Only so much documentaries and movies can one watch.
Members of excursion team supporting the crew with meal sand drink deliveries to cabins (all wearing protective clothing and masks). Leaders of kayak team also checking on me regularly since single occupancy cabin.



Letters sent to local member (Zali Steggall) by Warringah residents on board and their families at home go unanswered. In contrast, letters to Federal, Minister for Foreign Affairs Senator Marice Payne answered next day buy senior person in her employ expressing their understanding of our  situation and ways that they are exploring to resolve it satisfactorily with other parties.

Obviously everyone's plans and dreams had been destroyed and whilst passengers were writing positively and optimistically, others were either depressed or angry.

 Monday March 30 2020

Rough seas and resulting muddy water in harbour entrance was preventing the making of freshwater on board. The Uruguayans willing provided assistance with supply of food and water. Their compassion for our situation humanitarian efforts are truly amazing, however the understandable need to protect their citizens in the country is paramount.





Disembarkation is still not feasible and discussions still being held. Quarantine must still enforced until all people on board are fever free for 14 days. Cannot guarantee that will be allowed access to Montevideo if we leave the port.Remaining  at anchor at Montevideo is the plan and now many nations (including Australia)  have closed boarders for at least two months.

Tuesday 31 March 2020

Crosswords, puzzles, meal time,temperature checks, messages to  family, an in-cabin exercise program, movies on TV, ringing other passengers in their cabins, a 6 pm show on the PA system with Dan and talks with other guides, depressing American news stories all make up the daily activities program.

Now 6 with fever : 3 passengers, 3 crew whilst 8 have now recovered. We still have to be prepared for a Covid19 infection being on board since all the testing that occurred to date was with kits that test immunity which may not be present in the early stages of the illness. The Chief of Public Health in Uruguay is proposing test be conducted by a testing facility of all on board, which meets international standards. The resulting quarantine period post-testing still being discussed.

Another passenger was taken ashore for medical treatment in the hospital in Montevideo. Rough seas made the transfer very tricky.


(Video)





















Wednesday- Friday, April 1- April 3,  2020

Three more cases reported (all crew)  and at 21:30 on Wednesday  it was reported that the ill passenger now in Montevideo has tested positive for Covid19. The ships doctor, Dr Mauriceo also has fever and a back up volunteer medic is being arranged. Mainlining some service standards on board increasingly becoming more difficult with the isolation of crew members - a quiet and eerie calm seems present. 

Discussions on Whats App focus on the outcomes of cruise ship passengers in other ports and the higher risk faced by passengers who in remained in isolation.  Negotiations with authorities continue and testing scope and procedures mow are agreed. 

Despite the rough weather, an extra doctor from Uruguay boarded the ship. The rough sea has prevented the team of medical staff from ashore to come aboard and conduct the tests of everyone on the ship.

On Friday 3, a second passenger was taken ashore to the same British medical hospital as the first; testing was conducted by the medical team using nasl swabs, we await the results in the next few days.

Saturday - Sunday April 4 & 5

Results of test come in for some. mine is still not available.  Results to date show over 60% have Covid19 positive tests. Aurora trying to get agreement of flight for all not just people with a negative result.

Vast majority of all air transportation has now ceased and charter flights unwilling to carry at risk passengers. One company, HiFly is quoting A$15K per passenger to fly from HQ in Portugal to Montevideo, then direct to Australia. The quote reflects the market situation and scarcity of supply. The Company have asked government to assist.

Aurora waive all on board fees and costs accrued.  They also offered full credit on a similar voyage from Nov 2021.

Another check by Uruguayan medical team (seen arriving in photos below),  they have been most considerate and professional; checked our blood oxygen levels and temperatures asked our medical history and ensured we are fit to fly. The care and attention by the Uruguayan people has been amazing.
Stories of treatment by other countries towards cruise ship with Covid19 is in stark contrast.




More supplies arrive:

 

 Monday-Thursday April 6 - April 9, 2020

 Credit cruise offer now revised to a partial credit for future voyage. A cash refund alternative also offered.

The situation regarding repatriation of Aust/NZ passenger sand departure details now more fluid, then finally the  flight was arranged for Saturday April 11 at 1:40 am. The A$ 15K cost of the flight will be borne by the company. Both neg & positive passenger on the flight.

Letter with my test result arrived - NEGATIVE Yeah!

Key findings on Covid19 on board Greg Mortimer and our voyage.
  • Temperature testing prior to bording
  • Multiple hand wash stations on board
  • No outside contacts during voyage
  • On Day 3 of voyage, ship decided to no longer go to South Georgia (shorten to 14 day voyage)
  • Day 8 of voyage, first person showed symptoms.
  • Some crew and passengers developed symptoms each day.
  • Full complement tested on April 3(day 20)
  • 128 passenger/staff/crew tested POSITIVE with nasal swab test, 89 NEGATIVE
  • The POSITIVE patients :104 were asymptomatic/24 symptomatic
  • 4 required evacuation / 4 were put on respirators/ 1 mortality** (details at bottom of this blog).
  • 10 instances of 1 POS & 1 NEG of passengers sharing a cabin
The feasibility of using these finding in a medical study which did eventually get underway.
Friday 10 April 2020 - Good Friday


Only carry-on luggage can be taken. left a suitcase of bulky cold weather/snow gear item on board. Our larger cases will be sent back to Australia when normal shipping routes become operational. Uruguay's baggage handlers understandably don't want to handle them.

Aurora gifted each passenger a large waterproof backpack - greatly appreciated and helpful since carry on is 'all you can manage'.  The company's consideration and assistance and consideration at all stages of the Covid19 drama has been so great.
A difficult and harrowing time was made more bearable by Aurora minimising further costs and rendering valuable assistance where possible and a can do attitude by all staff . The ships crew were giving valuable assistance and care at all time. THANK YOU!

Two passenger have to remain in hospital until they recover.

And the NZ government will arrange a Trans-Tasman flight for the kiwis just after arrival at Melbourne.

Our amazing farewell dinner:

Surf and Turf


















 


We were decked out in special surgical masks and gloves for our journey to the bus, on the bus and boarding the plan.

We left on buses about midnight in a Sanitary Corridor that the Minister of Health had arranged. We travelled for about 50 minutes through streets many lined with multi-story apartments, people  with cheering and waving people on balconies and in cars. They had signs that said Good Luck. What beautiful & kind people!

We are dropped off at the stairs of the the Airbus 340 -300: our flight home. No passport control or security check - they know who we are, just get on board, find a seat and stow our large amounts of carry on luggage.

Saturday April 10, 1:40am


All aboard.

The crew are decked out like surgeons.

A flight just over 16 hours direct to Melbourne. Cold meals in packs dropped off and we can eat once the attendant leaves the area.

We are scattered in a checkerboard seating arrangement so keep oyr distance. Lavatories are frequently cleaned and staff ensure we are comfortable. Sleep well I'm coming home (well Melbourne)










And we arrive in Melbourne early morning Sunday April 12. Happy Easter Sunday



**P.S. The crewman who we subsequently learn had died was Ronnie Lorenzo. and passed away on April 17 from complications from Covid19. A GoFundMe page has been set up. He left a wife a three children.

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