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MichaelM’s stuff is a travel Blog written by Michael Mead. It covers Michael & Diane’s journeys. It blogs about the amazing places and countries that we have visited, the peoples, flora and fauna, history, geography and culture. Michael is now retired and loves living on the Northern Beaches of Sydney. He is a member of Rotary and was President of Rotary Balgowlah in 2014-2015 He has been on two visits overseas with Rotary (Myanmar in 2014 and Timor Leste in 2016) Diane & I went to Gallipoli on a Rotary tour at the 100th anniversary of the landing in 2014)

Friday, 13 March 2020

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Huskies and Lakes near Ushuaia

Friday 13 March 2020.

Today's tour was in a large 4 wheel drive vehicle with other spanish speaking travellers from Buenos Aires - I had a charming guide, Marcela, who spoke perfect english.



We travelled along the road No3 heading along the outskirts of Ushuaia and where the electronics industry Ushuaia's industrial sector, led by the Grundig Renacer electronics factory, is among the largest in Patagonia. White goods are also manufactured in an effort to keep the city and port viable. Mobile phone production has all but ceased due to Chinese imports.





Following Route 3, we  traveled along the mountain range to the first stop and vantage point “Valle Carbajal”



















The valley was formed by glacial action and  has the Olivia river flowing along the base.











Evergreen Beech ( Linga trees in spanish)
As the glaciers retreated, forests started to develop along the mountain slopes from sea level up to 600m above sea level. Two types of trees grow here, deciduous Beech and evergreen Beech.

Our next stop was the Valle de Lobos Winter Center, Siberian be Fuego Park. It is a breeding centre for sled dogs; Syberian Huskies and Alaskan Huskies.

















Events and races are held in the region and some staff had been to Alaska and worked and raced there.
The Cerro Castor Andean ski resort is nearby however it is closed until the season starts.
We passed where a road tunnel was being constructed  so that the slope would be extended to continue over the road and further down the mountain


The 450m high Garibaldi pass has a large lookout tower that gave amazing views of the Escondido and Fagnano lakes.



Lakes Escondido (foreground) and Fagnano.

Our group on the lookout tower.    



We took this rough road in the 4WD down to Lake Escondido and explored  the abandoned holiday resort at the lakes shore. An interesting off-road journey but the driver was very capable.



My guide, Marcela.


All the buildings at the resort were in total disrepair; the reality of commerce and tourism. The views and location were beautiful.





We left Lake Escondido and drove to Route 3 and travelled for  turned of an unmarked road and t the Fuegian forest through the roads that used the first lumberjacks and pass Lake Fagnano's defunct Martinez Sawmill.




What has caused all the die back and devastate the forests?

Beavers , yes beavers!

All the rivers that flow into the lake are dammed by beavers. 

Despite efforts to move or destroy their dams, they build they rapidly rebuild the structures and the groundwater and water table drowns the tree roots.

In an attempt of jump start a fur industry, 25 pairs were introduced by Argentina in 1945, today their numbers are 300,000. Eradication attempts by Chile & Argentina are ongoing.


Most Patagonian river systems are affected by beaver dams - yet another problem caused by an introduced species, the cane toad story of Australia has parallels.


Next we visited Fagnano Lake (also known as Cami lake derived from the native name Kami or Khami meaning big waters between mountains.) 
We were at the eastern end of the lake at a place called Tolhuin.


It is a large lake 98 Km long that straddle the border; 72.5 Km in Argentina and 13.5 in Chile.






Fellow travellers enjoying the moment















Fagnano lake occupies a tectonic depression that belongs to the Magellanes fault; the northern and southern side are two different plates of the earth's crust. The southern is the Scotia plate and the north the South-american plate. It was shaped by glacial erosion during the last glacial period from Darwin range.

A novel way to clean mud off the car
The fishing is great but seals can beat you to it
We headed back to the Route 3 - more beaver created destruction of the trees


Las Cotorras Valley, where we have the opportunity to indulge in an authentic Feugian lamb feast.




Now a drive back in Route 3 through the mountain pass and back to Ushuaia.








































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